Sweet by Nurture

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Fresh Corn Polenta with Ratatouille

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Every summer at the start of corn season I remember a little roadside stand northeast of San Diego that had the best fresh corn I’ve ever tasted. When I got back to the car with my brown paper bag, I would sit right there in the parking lot and eat one of the corn cobs—it was that good. There was always a line of people waiting for them to open and usually the corn ran out before everyone got through the line. Jinzo Chino started the farm with his wife Hatsuyo and became a well-respected farmer who developed new techniques for growing crops as well as new and unusual varieties of fruits and vegetables. He eventually caught the eye of a couple of Californian chefs including Alice Waters, who still buys produce from Chino’s Farm for her restaurant Chez Panisse. According to the website they are now open most days and if you ever find yourself in or around Del Mar, head east about 6 miles to the farm stand. You won’t be disappointed.

Though you probably won’t go all the way to San Diego to get corn, try this recipe because the use of fresh corn for the base of this dish is unique, versatile, and easy to make. Traditional polenta is basically dried corn ground into a coarse grain and then boiled. This version uses fresh (or frozen) corn that cooks much faster. With a little water added to the kernels, just cook them for 6-8 minutes, drain and quickly blend with feta, butter, and salt. You can stop right there and eat it from the pan—it is that good.

If you are looking for something more substantial, add the ratatouille on top of the fresh polenta. (Coincidently, the recipe for the ratatouille is from Chez Panisse.) You will have leftovers, which are great to eat the next day at room temperature, or with pasta, couscous, or grilled meats. Making ratatouille is also a great way to use up the excess bounty from your garden. If your friends are avoiding you because you hand them a zucchini every time you see them, try this recipe—yes, it is that good.

Note: Read the recipe through before you start. You can make the ratatouille the day before.

The polenta is best eaten as soon as you make it.

4-6 servings

The ratatouille is adapted from the cookbook Chez Panisse Vegetables; the polenta is adapted from an online recipe in the Guardian newspaper by Yottam Ottolenghi

Ingredients:

  • 4 tablespoons of olive oil

  • 1 large globe eggplant or 4 Japanese eggplants diced into 1” cubes (2 cups)

  • 1 large yellow onion diced into 1” pieces (1 ¾ cups)

  • 2-3 medium zucchini diced (4 cups)

  • 2 red bell peppers diced into 1” pieces (2 cups)

  • 3 medium tomatoes chopped, about 1 pound

  • 3 cloves garlic chopped

  • 6 ears of corn

  • 1 cup crumpled feta

  • 4 tablespoons of unsalted butter

  • 2 teaspoons of kosher salt (and more to taste)

  • Pinch of chili flakes

  • ½ bunch of fresh basil leaves

  • Freshly ground black pepper

To make the ratatouille:

1. Place the diced eggplant in a colander, toss with 1 teaspoon of salt, and sit over a bowl for 20 minutes.

2. While waiting for the eggplant, cut up the rest of the vegetables but keep them separate. Tie a handful of basil leaves with some twine and set aside. Cut the rest of the leaves into ribbons and save for the garnish.

3. After 20 minutes dry the eggplant in a tea towel. Warm a 12” sauté pan over medium high heat and add 2 tablespoons of olive oil and the dried eggplant. You want the eggplant to be in a single layer so cook it in batches if need be. Stir every couple of minutes. Transfer it to a bowl when it is golden and continue until you have all the eggplant cooked; you might have to add more oil if it starts to stick.

4. Without cleaning the pan, lower the heat to medium; add the onions along with a bit more olive oil. Cook until the onions glisten and soften.

5. Now add the chopped garlic, the basil bundle, and a pinch of red pepper flakes. Stir and cook a minute or so, watch so that the garlic doesn’t burn.

6. Next add the bell peppers and the squash and after a couple more minutes stir in the diced tomatoes, along with any tomato juices.

7. Cook for about 10 minutes and then add the eggplant back to the pan. Cover and lower the heat.

8. Cook another 15-20 minutes. Don’t let the squash get too soft. Pull out the basil bundle, sprinkle remaining ribboned basil leaves, taste for seasoning. Serve on top of the fresh corn polenta.

To make the polenta:

1. Shuck all six ears of corn.

2. In a large bowl holding the corn vertical cut the kernels off the cob by running a paring knife down the side of the cob, turning it as you go.

3. Place all the kernels in a saucepan and just barely cover with water. Bring to a low boil and cook for 6-8 minutes. You want the kernels soft but still holding their shape.

4. Drain the cork and save the water. Using an immersion blender or a food processor blend the corn, leaving it slightly chunky. You want to see some partial kernels.

5. Add the crumbled feta and salt to taste. Serve immediately topped with the ratatouille.

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