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A subscription to Hardcover Cook is like a book club with a twist. Every three months a cookbook arrives along with five or six ingredients. There is an option to choose the cookbook, but I like to be surprised when I open the box. In a trance while reading the new cookbook with the ingredients there in the box in front of me, I find myself walking into the kitchen to cook something new. In the past couple of weeks, I have been cooking with lots of different grains, though I do keep coming back to a few familiar ones.

Emmer, a low-gluten grain is loaded with fiber, vitamins, and magnesium. It has a long history in the Mediterranean and North Africa. Also known as farro, einkorn, and spelt (depending on its size), emmer has been reported to have been found in Egyptian tombs. The Romans fed their massive legions with it, and even used it as a currency. Still very popular in Italy today, it only started to gain momentum here in the late 90’s.

You are probably already familiar with farro, the nutty earthy flavored grain that is hard to resist. Until recently I didn’t make it at home much, though. Now as I am trying to stick to a diet of less meat, grains are a tasty and less costly substitute. One cup of uncooked farro gives you 2 ¼ cups cooked that will last in the refrigerator for 4 to 5 days.

The riffable possibilities are endless: it’s great in salads, soups, risotto, or under a grilled piece of fish. The whole grain, semi-pearled, and pearled versions all have a different cooking time, so check the instructions—but cooking them is as easy as putting a saucepan full of salted water on the stove. This is a grain that sticks to your ribs and is a good candidate for your recipe rotation.

If you are looking for informative and practical cookbooks on grains, I suggest Grains for Every Season by Joshua McFadden, and Grist by Abra Berens. Both have lots of good ideas and accessible ingredients, most of which you probably already have in your kitchens.

NOTE: Make the dressing first and set aside while you make the salad. Leafy greens need to be completely dry, or dressing will not stick to the leaves. You can cook the farro, toast the pepitas, and make the dressing the day before.

 SERVES 4

Adapted from the A.O.C. cookbook by Suzanne Goin

 Salad Ingredients:

• 1 cup of uncooked pearled farro 

• 2 cups gem lettuce, arugula, or spinach (see note)

• 1 bunch of radishes washed, dried, and sliced from stem to root as thin as possible

• 3 scallions washed, diagonally sliced

• 1 cup of snap peas 

•  ½ cup fava beans (optional)

• ½ cup chopped mixed herbs (parsley, mint, cilantro, basil)

• ¼ lb. feta  or goat cheese crumbled

• ¼-1/3 cup of toasted pepitas (325° in the oven for 5 minutes)

 Directions: 

1.     Put one cup of uncooked farro and 2 cups of water in a medium-sized saucepan. Bring to a boil, lower heat, cover and cook at a low simmer for about 25-35 minutes. Test the grain for doneness and add more water if necessary. The texture should be kind of al dente. Drain and rinse the grain and set it aside in a bowl. 

2.     While the farro is cooking, toast the pepitas. Place them on a cookie sheet in a single layer in a 325° oven for 4 or 5 minutes until fragrant. Cool on another plate so they don’t overcook. 

3.     Next put the snap peas in a Pyrex measuring cup and pour boiling water over them. Let them sit for 2 minutes, drain and dry on a tea towel. 

4.     Chop the scallions and herbs, then toss with the farro, radishes, snap peas, and fava beans if using. 

5.     Just before serving toss with the greens, toasted pepitas, feta and dressing. Taste, adjust seasoning, and serve. 

 Variations: You can add grilled shrimp, or chicken, grilled asparagus, or thinly sliced fennel, tomatoes and corn in the summer, or roasted squash and pomegranate seeds in the fall. 

Citrus Dressing:

Makes ½ cup

 Ingredients

• 1 tablespoon sherry or white wine vinegar

• 1 teaspoon Dijon-style mustard

• 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice (about ½ lemon—Meyer if you have it)

• ½ cup olive oil

• Pinch of kosher salt and a few grinds of fresh pepper

 Directions for making the dressing:

In a jar with a tight-fitting lid add vinegar, mustard, lemon juice, and salt and pepper. Cover and shake vigorously for a second or two. Add the oil and repeat. Taste and adjust seasoning as needed.