Yellow Split Pea and Squash Soup
Squash is at its peak this time of year and is a perfect base for secret sauces, and/or unexpected ingredients that will make a meal memorable. When it comes to flavor, it really is all about the secret sauce—that unexpected ingredient or topping that changes the whole dish. It doesn’t have to be an expensive gourmet item or even take much time to elevate the ordinary dish into the finger-licking category. When foodies talk about the complexity of a flavor they are talking about that secret sauce, ingredient, or topping.
An example of an unexpected ingredient is anchovies in a ragu sauce or sautéed with capers and garlic for chicken thighs. For a secret sauce, top sautéed Swiss chard with a sprinkle of soy sauce and balsamic vinegar and a small pat of unsalted butter. The unexpected flavor is subtle but memorable. Get ready for someone to ask where you bought the chard.
With so many different varieties of squash in the markets, it is hard to walk by without buying at least one, maybe two. If you happen to pick up a butternut squash, cut it into wedges— no peeling necessary, you can eat the skin. Into a mortar and pestle toss some cardamom seeds, cumin, garlic, salt, pepper, and olive oil; mash to a paste and coat the squash. Roast until fork tender and caramelized, about 25 minutes. If like me, you are only cooking for two, you might have enough left for the recipe below.
This recipe is just slightly adapted from Meike Peters’ amazing cookbook 365 A Year of Everyday Cooking and Baking. Meike calls for butternut squash, but you can substitute another winter squash such as Red Kuri, Kabocha, Hubbard, or sugar pumpkin. Don’t substitute a squash or pumpkin that has stringy flesh like a spaghetti squash, or a field pumpkin. Field pumpkins have a watery, stringy, and sometimes bitter taste, great for carving jack-o-lanterns because they have a thin shell, but not so good for eating.
The combination of orange-fleshed squash and yellow split peas makes a visually beautiful autumnal golden soup. The topping of sautéed red onions and whipped gorgonzola cheese gives it a robust, tangy, slightly sweet flavor. The maple syrup and balsamic vinegar may seem like too much sweetness, but it really works with the earthy flavor in the soup, the creamy mascarpone, and tang of the gorgonzola. Talk about complexity of flavor!
Kuri Squash
Makes 2 quarts
Ingredients:
3 tablespoons olive oil
3 garlic cloves minced
1 cup diced yellow onion
1 cup yellow split peas
¾ lb. peeled, seeded, and diced squash -Butternut, Kuri, Kabocha, Hubbard, or Sugar Pumpkin
6 cups of vegetable or chicken broth
1 bay leaf
2 whole cloves
1 tablespoon dried marjoram
Topping:
2 medium red onions thinly sliced
2 tablespoon maple syrup
1 teaspoon balsamic vinegar
2 tablespoons mascarpone
2 oz. gorgonzola cheese
½ cup milk
½ teaspoon kosher salt
Directions:
Place a 3-quart saucepan over medium heat, add olive oil to coat the bottom, next add the yellow onion and the garlic. Stir occasionally for about 3 minutes until the onion starts to glisten and soften. Now add the squash, and split peas, stir and cook for one minute. Add the bay leaf, cloves, and marjoram, stir to combine and when fragrant, about 2 minutes, add the stock. Bring to a low boil and turn heat down to a medium simmer. Cook for 35 minutes, until the split peas are soft.
While the soup is cooking make the toppings.
Measure out into a medium bowl, the milk, the mascarpone, and gorgonzola cheese. Whip with a fork, until the liquid is incorporated, and you have a smooth texture, add the salt, taste, and adjust as needed. Remember that the soup stock will be a bit salty when adjusting the topping. Set aside and cook the onions.
Place a medium sauté pan over medium low heat add a splash of olive oil. Swirl to coat the bottom of the pan and add the sliced red onions. Cook stirring occasionally, until the onions lose their shape and are very soft about 7 minutes. Turn off the heat and add the maple syrup and the balsamic vinegar. Stir to combine. Set aside.
Discard the bay leaf and the cloves from the soup. Using an immersion blender puree ½ the soup, leaving some chunky pieces for texture. Taste the soup and adjust seasonings in necessary. When ready to eat, warm up the soup, pour into bowls, top with the onions and a dollop of the whipped cheese. Serve alongside a salad and bread.